My Favorite Eight Ways to Fold a Pocket Square
A pocket square is the finishing touch to any outfit, and it can completely transform your appearance in terms of tone, color scheme, and level of formality. But did you know that, depending on how you fold it, a pocket square can serve a variety of purposes?
You can do a lot of different things with a pocket square because of all the different ways you can fold it. Having access to these distinct folds will effectively double, triple, or even quadruple the size of your pocket square wardrobe, as each fold can highlight different characteristics of each type of pocket square, making them look like completely different articles of clothing each time they are folded.
You'll find instructions for eight standard folds for a pocket square, plus a bonus fold, here. All of these folds adhere to the standards of Classic Style and will give you the wide range of options for dapper presentation that are characteristic of a neatly folded pocket square.
Choose the Appropriate Fold for the Appropriate Occasion and Pocket Square
When it comes to your pocket square, not all folds are created equal.
An unfussy pocket square An outstanding daytime getup is finished off with a dark bronze madder silk pocket square featuring a diamond motif and paisley. A white pocket square worn with a suit and tie for the day.Many people are surprised to learn that not all pocket squares can be folded in the same way. Certain folds function better with stiffer, more robust fabrics, while others look best with plush or soft fabrics, and the material from which the pocket square is made is a primary deciding factor as to whether or not a fold is viable and appears elegant with that material.
Depending on which part of the pocket square is displayed when the article is folded and placed in the pocket, different types of folds will best complement particular designs or patterns on the pocket square.
Finally, certain folds are typically more casual or formal than others based on their appearance. Therefore, the level of formality should be taken into account when deciding which fold to use.
Folding Performance Varies Depending on Material
Cotton, linen, wool, silk, and their respective blends are the traditional materials for pocket squares.
The effectiveness of these fabrics in various folds is dependent on their individual properties. Stiffer fabrics are typically required for creating precise folds with sharp architectural lines. In most cases, a softer, more luxurious material is preferable for use with plush, organic folds.
The quality and vibrancy of the pocket square's reflected details, such as color and image, can also be affected by the material it's made from. Silk from the madder plant is especially prized for its luxurious texture and vibrant hues.
To help you achieve the most elegant results, we'll go over some of the most common folds and offer our recommendations for the best materials to use for each one.
Examine the options for making pocket squares.
As for the subject of pocket squares,...
Size Does Matter
If you want your pocket square to stay put in your jacket pocket, it's best to get the right size for the material. Fabrics that are too thick or too rigid tend to bunch up or slide down into the pocket, respectively. The rule of thumb is that a larger pocket square size is appropriate for thinner material and a smaller size is appropriate for thicker material. Avoid buying from a manufacturer of pocket squares whose products are uniform in size and construction.
Fold Appearance Is Determined by Patterns and Design.
You can find pocket squares in practically any hue, print, or pattern. Carefully consider your options to find the best fit. The way a pocket square is folded determines what parts of the design are visible. Most folds will draw attention to either the pocket square's edges or its body, or sometimes both.
For the purpose of choosing the best folds, you will want to focus on distinguishing between pocket squares with primarily detailed edges, like x-stitching or a prominently rolled edge, and pocket squares with bold central detailing, such as a pattern or design in the center. similar to a medallion, a graphic, or a pattern
A medallion like this one A sample of a recurrent design One instance of a recurrent imageWhen a pocket square is being used that has dramatic central detailing, such as a medallion, a fold that emphasizes the body of the pocket square offers the most visual interest. However, pocket squares with unusual edge detailing, such as x-stitching or an unexpected texture, look best when folded in a way that draws attention to the borders. Patterns that go well with each fold are recommended where appropriate.
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Fold Efficiency Is Affected By Formality
The Pocket Square Fold also factors into the Degree of Formality. Many different types of pocket square folds exist, and they can be categorized according to aesthetics and traditional conventions as either casual, business casual, business attire, semi-formal, or formal. Depending on the level of formality expected, a fold may be appropriate for everyday situations like the workplace or for more formal events like those requiring a Black Tie.
The more visually complex a fold is, the more informal it is perceived to be. In the case of extremely architectural and geometric pocket square folds, this becomes immediately apparent. When folding a pocket square, however, more formal shapes like triangles, squares, and organic curves are preferred.
Each fold's appropriateness for a given level of formality will be explained, and additional information can be found in the appropriate Gentleman's Gazette dress code guide.
A pair of handkerchiefs and a pocket square
Are Different
A pocket square and a handkerchief are two distinct pieces of menswear, despite their superficial similarities. The handkerchief is a functional item designed for specific tasks, such as wiping perspiration from the face or dust and debris from the desk. A pocket square is a small, square piece of fabric worn folded in the breast pocket of a jacket for decorative purposes. A crude but succinct way to describe the distinction between the two is "one is for blowing / the other is for showing." ”
The Traditional Pleat
Using a white linen Fort Belvedere pocket square, we present the Classic Fold. In addition to "Classic," you may know this fold as "Square," "Straight," "TV," or "Presidential." This is a classic fold, typical of newscasters, bridesmaids, and lawyers in stuffy boardrooms and conference rooms. A less formal variant of this fold is described in more depth below. This fold is typically associated with white pocket squares because of their light color and because they look best when they are relatively stiff, like a cotton or linen pocket square.
Hand-rolled edge facing up, pocket square open
Horizontally fold the entire pocket square in half.
Flip the square of fabric in your pocket by 90 degrees and fold it in half horizontally.
Finish by horizontally folding the entire pocket square.
Place the lower third to a quarter of the pocket square in your pocket, depending on the depth of your pocket.
The Relaxed Take on a Traditional Fold
The steps for the Casual Fold are very similar to those for the Classic Fold. However, when folding each half of the square, you should not line up the folded edges perfectly straight. Because more of the edge will be visible, any contrasting edges will stand out, and the entire fold will have a more relaxed look.
Clear Labels
Take a snip and tuck it in
When folded, labels from the manufacturer or care instructions can be a distraction. In this case, you should either hide the tag or get rid of it. When removing the tag, handle the pocket square with care so as not to rip or tear the fabric. Nail scissors or a seam ripper can be used to safely cut through delicate materials. Labels with care instructions should be kept for future use.
Crown Folding, or a Several-Pointed Fold
This elegant and stately fold brings attention to the edges of the pocket square, which is why it works well with a contrasting edge or cross stitching. This fold is best used with pocket squares made of linen, wool, or wool-silk because these fabrics are slightly stiffer and will keep the points looking sharp and sophisticated. You can also use silk, but make sure the pocket square is big enough to stay put and the fabric is stiff enough to prevent lank points.
Spread the back of the pocket square into a diamond shape.
Fold the pocket square horizontally to make a triangle, making sure the points don't touch at the top.
Make a crease from the rightmost corner to the leftmost one.
Make a crease from the leftmost corner to the rightmost one.
Tuck the right-side fabric scraps into the center of the fold.
Bring the left side of the folded fabric to the center.
Why It's So Vital That
The Edges Were Rolled By Hand
Hand-rolled edges are essential for the crown fold and any other fold that draws attention to the pocket square's borders. They are visually superior to machine-hemmed edges and also perform better. When it comes to a decorative item like a pocket square, you want the edge to look as good as possible, and nothing beats hand-rolled edges.
This video will teach you the ins and outs of making a pocket square, including the importance of hand-rolled edges.
Pinch or Puff Fold
The Puff Fold, with a pocket square of moss green silk wool from Fort Belvedere. This is a classic favorite of the Classic Style because of its distinctive, understated look and retro vibe reminiscent of tuxedos from the 1920s. The refined manner in which the folds break makes it look best in silk or silk-wool blends. Avoid using something stiff, like linen, because it will probably slip out of your pocket and look unsightly by the end of the day.
Place the pocket square face down and pinch it in the center.
With your other hand, make a hole in the center of the pocket square and thread the square through it.
Extend the length of the pocket square to the desired size.
To keep the fold in place, twist the center of the pocket square.
Fold it to the appropriate size, and slip it into your pocket.
How to Make the Ideal Puff
A more natural, asymmetrical puff can be achieved by pressing the top of the puff down into itself, as practiced by some users. This depression, however, will grow over time, leaving a large, unsightly puff in its place. Instead, take the square by one of its corners and tuck it into your pocket; repeat with the other three corners until you have a puff of the desired size and shape.
Keep in mind that if you use this method, you won't be able to give the pocket square a final twist to keep it in place.
This chic fold takes the best features of the Puff Fold and the Crown Fold and combines them into one. Use a silk or silk-wool pocket square for optimal results, and stay away from stiff fabrics for a comfortable fit.
This fold can be customized to the specifics of the pocket square it is made from by adjusting the number of points and the placement of those points, from a one-point fold to a four-point fold.
Pocket Squares with Decorative Medallions to Complement Any Attire
Square of blue mohair, embroidered with a burgundy medallion
Square of orange silk and blue wool with a medallion design
Blue medallion on a red silk pocket square.
This fold looks best when the main body of the pocket square is very different from the edge detailing. As you create a signature style, this will give you the most leeway and adaptability possible. This fold showcases the pocket square's body in a prominent but unexpected way, making a central medallion design stand out.
Methods similar to the Puff Fold should be used. Spread the pocket square out flat, obverse side up, and pinch the center.
Create a hole in the center of the pocket square using your other hand's fingers.
Extend the length of the pocket square to the desired size.
To keep the fold in place, twist the center of the pocket square.
Place the pointy side of the pocket square behind your puff. You can adjust the points and put them in your pocket.
A Fold in the Shell
The Beautiful Shell Crust Fold Since perfecting this fold takes some effort and practice, it is not commonly seen. However, when executed correctly, this fold is very special and can add a unique touch to formal wear.
To keep the elements of the Shell Fold seated in the pocket and from falling out, a large pocket square made of silk or silk-wool is necessary. Pocket squares made of silk wool will have a subdued matte appearance, while those made of silk will have a more vibrant sheen.
Open the pocket square so that the back is flat.
The pocket square can be folded into a large triangle by folding it diagonally.
Fold in half again, making a triangle, with your forefinger in the middle of the long edge. Instead of a perfectly straight line where the corners meet, leave some space between them this time.
To make another slight angle, fold the corners that are perpendicular to the angled edge up to the top. The end result ought to resemble three slightly crooked triangles that have been stacked.
Create three "shells" on one side of the pocket square by folding in the center of the stacked edges.
A Case of the Scallops
Folding Scallops This is yet another fold that calls attention to the pocket square's edges and works particularly well with those that feature contrast or other visually interesting designs. The border, in fact, plays a significant role in the overall aesthetic of this fold. It also has a very polished organic curve that looks great.
Spread the back of the pocket square out flat.
Cut diagonally in half and unfold so that the edges are visible and slightly crooked.
To make a triangle with a long side that displays multiple pocket square edges, fold the square in half along the long, folded edge and then in half again at a slight angle.
Fold the right edge in toward the middle, exposed edge side up.
Tuck the left side into the middle.
Raise the new right edge to meet the middle.
The new left edge is folded to the middle.
Depending on the size of your pocket, fold the paper in half horizontally.
Creating a More Natural Appearance with the Scallop Fold
The square's scalloped edges can be made to look more refined and casual after being tucked into a pocket. To create a more unique, elliptical curve, you can also perform the final fold slightly asymmetrically. This will prevent the fold from appearing too artificial.
A Fold in the Rose
This fold is as sophisticated as a boutonniere because it features strong natural lines and attractive organic shapes. Use a pocket square with a medallion in the center and contrasting edges to draw attention to the fold and highlight its symmetry.
Flip the pocket square inside out and spread it out.
To create a crease, bring the bottom right corner to the middle.
Start by bringing the bottom left corner to the middle.
Fold the upper left corner in toward the middle.
Bring the last corner in toward the middle. A diamond shape, like a folded envelope or package, should result.
Grab the center of the fold with your dominant hand, making sure to get a good hold on each section.
Hold the object's epicenter in your non-dominant hand. Fold it so that the central section hangs loosely and slip it into your pocket.
Accessories: a boutonniere and a pocket square It Works Well Enough Most of the Time
Flowers are probably what come to mind when you see the Rose Fold, specifically boutonnieres that are worn in the lapel. If you want to go the extra mile, you can wear a boutonniere and a pocket square together. Unless, of course, you're sporting an enormous, elaborate boutonniere. The dramatic boutonniere will likely overpower the pocket square, and the two will make for an overly crowded appearance.
Read this for helpful information about boutonnieres.
Indentation of Angel Peak
Similar to the Crown Fold, but with more of an emphasis on height and structure, this fold has found a lot of success in the realm of Contemporary Styling. It's at its most dapper when worn with a contemporary outfit and styled correctly.
Create a triangle shape by folding the square pocket square in half diagonally.
To do this, fold the triangle's right point to the left of the triangle's vertex.
To do this, fold the triangle's left corner to a spot just to the left of the triangle's vertex.
A fourth point can be found by unfolding the third one.
To fit into your pocket, fold in half horizontally. You can make the points look less precise and formal by raising or lowering their relative height. This carefree style will make you look more attractive and natural.
Kyle pairs a black dress shirt with a checkered jacket for a classic business look appropriate for the Angel's Peak Fold. The Stair Fold, a Bonus Move
When not done properly, the Stair Fold, another common Contemporary Fold, looks like a cheap, mass-produced pocket square. However, it can be spectacular when paired with the right pocket square.
Our research suggests that the best fabric for the Stair Fold is a silk-wool blend with a soft enough drape to enhance the pattern's definition. A crinkled or springy fabric, like linen, will give the impression of being fake and flat. Additionally, the rigid structure of the fold should not obscure the pocket square's center medallion or contrast edge.
The pocket square should be folded diagonally into a triangle with the point facing you.
When the point is facing you, grab the top layer and gently pull it away.
Make a crease along the length of the pocket square's horizontal edge and fold the tip back toward you, stopping short of the main fold.
Fold in half along the middle line until you have made three or four folds along the edge, stacking the points.
Your dominant middle finger should be tucked under the center folds of the pocket square.
Gather the center of the pocket square with your non-dominant hand.
Tuck the right-side scraps of fabric under the pocket square.
Tuck the leftover material under the pocket square on the left.
You're free to choose whether the point faces toward or away from your tie. To achieve the same carefree appearance as with the shell fold, gently tug on each fold.
Which is Better: Brummell or No Brummell? ”
It was said that the early menswear icon Beau Brummell would spend hours each day arranging his clothes "just so" so that it looked like he had thrown them on. Today, this fashion principle—often linked to the Italian idea of sprezzatura—is most frequently seen in the way a pocket square is folded. You'll find suggestions for how to make a pocket square fold look less stiff and more effortless sprinkled throughout this guide. A pocket square will generally look more refined if its design is more organic, and no one will mistake it for a fake if it lacks such a signature look. However, if you'd like your pocket square to have a more mathematical appearance, you're free to fold it however you see fit.
Conclusion
Pocket squares are a wonderful accessory, and the options for folding them creatively and playfully only increase their appeal. Having mastered the fundamentals of folding with these eight traditional pocket square folds, you can consider your folding journey merely to have begun. You should not only practice folds, but also try out different variations to find ones that suit your personal taste. There is no single "correct" way to fold a pocket square; instead, enjoy the freedom to express your individuality. Also, tell us in the comments your favorite folding techniques.
Always remember that an elegant, well-made pocket square with classic style is the key to a successful pocket square fold.
The Fort Belvedere Gift Shop has the finest handkerchiefs.
Outline of Attire
Raphael dons a grey with color flecks vintage Donegal tweed coat and a Ralph Lauren Fair Isle sweater vest in the video that goes along with today's article. Because of its v-neck, it pairs well with the blue and light blue mottled silk knit tie that we sell. His blue and white striped shirt complements his tie and navy chino pants, while also tying in with and drawing attention to the white linen Fort Belvedere pocket square with contrast cross edge stitching.
He wore a pair of Fort Belvedere gray and red striped shadow over-the-calf socks. They match the red jacket and pants and pick up the red accents on the shoes.
His Fort Belvedere monkey fist knot cufflinks are plated in silver platinum, and he wears them with a white gold pinky ring that has an interesting scratched texture. an imitation blue sapphire that complements the garment's blue hues and serves as a finishing touch
Dressed for success: Raphael 
Belvedere Fortress
Pocket Square, White Linen, Handrolled, X-Stitch in Navy Blue
An Overview of Fort Belvedere
Silk Cri De La Soie Knit Tie with a Light Blue Mottled Pattern
Belvedere Fortress
Socks with a Burgundy and Light Grey Shadow Stripe, Woven with Fil d'Ecosse Cotton
The Belvedere Fortress
Cufflinks with a Monkey's Fist Knot Design, 925 Sterling Silver, Platinum Finish
Previously Folded Content from a Pocket Square
The article and video you see before you now are revised and updated versions of content originally published in 2014. To see how far the Gentleman's Gazette has come in the intervening years, please view the original video that can be found at the link provided below.
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